Many chefs love morel mushrooms – in fact, they have been referred to as “sacred” ingredients by at least one well-known culinary expert. However, they’re a mysterious, and sometimes dangerous, fungus.
Just take this case investigated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration this year. In the spring, two diners who ate bits of morel served at a Montana sushi restaurant died. Overall, 51 people became sick after eating the mushrooms and three were hospitalized.
“Above all else, our hearts go out to the loved ones of the two people who passed away and to all who have been impacted, no matter the circumstances,” said Dave’s Sushi in Bozeman, Mt. According to the restaurant, the Gallatin City-County Health Department, the Montana Department of Public Health and Human Services, the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and the FDA investigated the “unthinkable and tragic foodborne illness related to morel mushrooms that were served at our restaurant.”
As the holiday season deepens, and New Year’s resolution-related cooking experiments loom just around the corner, the idea of trying out morels might seem tempting. Though, people who aim to work with the foraged fungi should be careful.
CBS News said the Dave’s Sushi case “has highlighted just how little is known about morel mushrooms and the risks in preparing the popular and expensive delicacy.”
Aaron Parker, the owner of Dave's Sushi, said morels can cost him $40 to $80 per pound.
According to the report, Jon Ebelt – spokesperson for Montana’s health department – noted that there’s limited public health information or medical literature on morel mushrooms. An especially mysterious aspect of the Dave’s case is the fact that no specific toxin, pathogen, pesticide, or volatile or nonvolatile organic compound was detected in the mushroom samples.
Parker said other chefs he contacted were not aware that morels could be inherently toxic. As of July 19, the investigation into the case was closed. Although other restaurants received morels from the same importer, Dave’s was the only location linked to food poisoning cases.
“The North American Mycological Association, a national nonprofit whose members are mushroom experts, recorded 1,641 cases of mushroom poisonings and 17 deaths from 1985 to 2006,” said CNS News. “One hundred and twenty-nine of those poisonings were attributed to morels, but no deaths were reported.”
Morel mushrooms are commonly foraged in the wild but sometimes cultivated for commercial sale, per the FDA. While they are generally considered safe to eat, they can contain toxins.
“The toxins in morel mushrooms that may cause illness are not fully understood; however, using proper preparation procedures, such as cooking can help to reduce toxin levels,” said the FDA.
Those who develop food poisoning from morel mushrooms can experience gastrointestinal symptoms such as nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal pain. Neurological symptoms such as dizziness, balance problems and disorientation have been documented after consumption of raw or undercooked morel mushrooms. Most people who became sick in the Montana case had gastrointestinal symptoms.
“In general, symptoms of mushroom poisoning depend on the type of mushroom consumed, the specific toxin present, and amount ingested,” said the FDA. “Symptoms can also vary depending on the individual who ate them, as some individuals may be more susceptible than others.”
It said that anyone who eats the mushrooms does so at their own risk, as there is now guarantee that any preparation or cooking techniques will have an impact on toxins in the mushrooms. Additionally, there are varieties of poisonous wild mushrooms that are often mistaken for morels. Mushroom samples from Dave’s were true morels.
“If you are preparing morel or other wild-type mushrooms, you should inspect for any signs of spoilage as toxin presence and levels may be affected by freshness or lack thereof,” the FDA recommended. “Choose mushrooms that are dry and firm and avoid those that are bruised, discolored, or slimy,” and refrigerate them at a temperature of 40° F or below. How mushrooms are stored also contributes to safety risks.
According to the Missouri Department of Conservation, morels are so associated with foraging that they’re probably what most people picture when they think of wild mushrooms.
“The morel’s short season, good camouflage, and deliciousness leads some to keep ‘their’ morel spots a secret,” said the department. “Morels are treasured for their delicious flavor and the fun of the hunt, often a family tradition spanning generations.”
Though who forage for morels are advised to seek help from experts and to be cautious about consuming them.