Mangia: Santaserio's returns to Niagara Street

BUFFALO, N.Y. (WBEN)......Trish Brydalski admitted she got a tad misty-eyed on June 10 when she served up an order of pasta e fagoli and spaghetti.

"I was thinking of my grandfather, my great grandfather, my parents and my brother," Brydalski said.

Brydalski and her late brother, Johnny Brands, were the fourth generation operators of Santaserio's - one of Buffalo's oldest and iconic restaurants.

Santaserio's closed last summer following Johnny Brands' death and the for sale went on the property.

Many thought that was the end of the road for Santaserio's.

"We were hoping someone would step in and keep the tradition alive," Brydalski said. "Nobody wanted to see it go away."

And, that's exactly what happened.

Prominent local attorney Mark Longo along with homebuilder and developer Dave Capretto and Jennifer Hurley bought Santaserio's - but with one condition - Brydalski has to come on board to oversee the operations and the restaurant had to use all the family-owned and created recipes.

The interior underwent some minor upgrades like new tables and chairs along with a slightly revamped back room. The bar was fixed up and new chairs and tables were added.

Otherwise, it is the same Santaserio's that has been a Niagara Street culinary anchor and destination since it first opened in 1921.

The sauce is old school/old world from the Santaserio family cookbook. The same is true for the pasta e fagoili, sauteed hot peppers, stuff shells and everything on the menu.

"The food is the same as it has been for decades," Brydalski said. "We brought it back to the way it was and the way it should be."

Brydalski said the community has responded in a big way.

Business has been better than expected during Santaserio's opening days.

The restaurant's 20-person - many of whom are holdovers from the past - have been busy. Make that very busy.

And, the impact of Santaserio's return can be felt with local businesses.

For example: sausage comes from Scime's Sausage while the break and pizzelles hail from Gino's Italian Bakery while the ravioli comes from fellow Niagara Street business - Gondola and the gelato comes from Forno e Galeto.

"We are helping them and they are helping us," Brydalski said.

Located at 1329 Niagara Street, Santaserio's is open from 11:30 am. to 8:30 p.m Tuesdays through Saturdays and 4 p.m to 8:30 p.m. on Sundays.