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Some Texas barbecue joints pull brisket as beef prices soar

Texas BBQ Restaurants Struggle To Keep Up With Rising Beef Costs
EAGLE PASS, TEXAS - JUNE 03: Brisket is prepared at The Wheel Wagon on June 03, 2026 in Eagle Pass, Texas. The Wheel Wagon has expressed concern and added strife over rising beef prices that began nearly one year ago. The small business has reported a near $3 increase per pound on brisket, leading to a $200 increase per box from the year prior. "Being a small business in a small community, it's hard to raise our prices... This is not Central Texas and there are not many people in this community that want to pay the price of beef as its gone up. We've been stressed and have taken a big hit with cattle and meat," said owner Marco. A historic cattle shortage has driven wholesale beef prices to record highs, triggering a 17% surge in steak prices and a 19% increase in ground beef costs. Prolonged drought, labor shortages, and rising operating expenses have forced several renowned barbecue establishments throughout Texas to shut down, while others are considering significant service cutbacks. The Trump administration has initiated supply-side relief efforts, but progress stalled after the White House paused two executive orders in early May.
Photo by Brandon Bell/Getty Images


Some Texas barbecue restaurants are taking brisket and beef ribs off the menu rather than charge what the meat now costs. The latest flashpoint is South Texas, where a Texas Monthly Top 50 smokehouse has dropped its signature cut.

Butter’s BBQ in Sinton announced this week that brisket will no longer be on the everyday menu after another wholesale hike of $1 a pound, MySA reported. Owner and pitmaster Andrew Soto said brisket was eating more than 70% of the restaurant’s grocery bill and that he would have to charge about $51 a pound to keep serving it. The shop had been selling brisket for $34 a pound. Soto said sales are on pace for a record-low year as grocery costs keep rising. Brisket may still be available by pre-order, with beef cheek moving onto the daily lineup.

Other Coastal Bend pits are making similar calls. Silverado Smokehouse owner William Paul Sissamis said he would rather park beef ribs than raise prices. David Page of Hoegemeyer’s Barbeque Barn told KGNS that beef prices have jumped about 40% in two years and that many restaurants have already discontinued products because they are “cost-prohibitive.” High diesel costs are adding to the squeeze.

The pressure is statewide. Smaller joints have closed this year as wholesale brisket that once ran a few dollars a pound has climbed toward $6 to $7. Name-brand spots with long lines can still move $30-plus-a-pound trays. Neighborhood pits that live on regulars cannot.

Behind the menu changes is a historically small U.S. cattle herd — about 86 million to 87 million head, the lowest in roughly 75 years — after years of drought, expensive feed and ranchers selling cows instead of rebuilding. Herd recovery takes years because ranchers must keep heifers back for breeding. USDA has been cutting its 2026 beef production forecast even as consumer demand stays strong.

For Texas barbecue, that means the cut that defines the plate is becoming a luxury item. Some pitmasters say they would rather take it off the board than ask customers to pay what the math now requires.

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