How the ‘queen of sushi’ created the Philadelphia roll and a lasting legacy

Celebrating Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month
Madame Saito
Madame Saito teaches sushi-making classes at her restaurant in Society Hill. Photo credit Holli Stephens/KYW Newsradio

PHILADELPHIA (KYW Newsradio) — Madame Saito, widely known as the queen of sushi, can be found each day at her Tokio HeadHouse restaurant in Society Hill, where she prepares to teach her sushi-making classes.

She closed her restaurant to the public at the start of the pandemic, but she continued to utilize it as a teaching space for large groups, couples and even young children, showing them the art of how to roll sushi.

Sushi-making is Saito’s passion, and her influence can be found on almost every sushi menu in the country — she is credited with inventing the world-famous Philadelphia roll.

“I feel happy because all the world knows about the Philly roll as smoked salmon and cream cheese,” she said. “The children love the Philly roll, the old people and our age — everyone loves the Philly roll.”

Madame Saito presents an array of sushi rolls, which she teaches others how to make in her classes.
Madame Saito presents an array of sushi rolls, which she teaches others how to make in her classes. Photo credit Holli Stephens/KYW Newsradio
Madame Saito presents an array of sushi rolls, which she teaches others how to make in her classes.
Madame Saito Photo credit Holli Stephens/KYW Newsradio

Saito came up with the idea after having breakfast at the home of a Jewish couple, who served her lox and cream cheese. She unveiled her new creation at a cuisine competition at Longwood Gardens in the 1980s.

"I raised [the roll] in the public, ‘This is a Philly roll!’” she remembered telling the crowd. “And that’s how the Philly roll start from there.”

Saito built her culinary empire in Philadelphia over more than 40 years, working as a longtime restauranteur, sushi chef and sushi-making instructor. Her love of sushi and the joy of teaching are the main ingredients that perfect her sushi-making legacy.

“I want people to know that [if] you love something, just keep doing. Don’t give up,” she said.

Sushi-making tips from Madame Saito

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• Before cooking, always rinse the rice until the water runs clear.
• Season the rice with vinegar by gently using a wooden paddle or spoon. Be careful not to mash the rice.
• Work with the seaweed shiny side down.
• Work with warm rice. It makes for better sushi.
• Have a towel and a bowl of water handy to keep your hands clean of rice.

Asian Americans Making Their Mark
Photo credit KYW Newsradio

Throughout Asian American and Pacific Islander (AAPI) Heritage Month, KYW Newsradio is celebrating the contributions of these diverse and essential communities with an audio series called “Asian Americans Making Their Mark.”

Asian Americans are a diverse group comprising more than 30 ethnicities and nationalities and are the fastest-growing racial group in the United States. This series, led by KYW’s Denise Nakano, recognizes their history, culture and achievements in the Philadelphia region at a time when AAPI communities are seeing a rise in anti-Asian speech and activity across the country.

Join KYW throughout the month of May as we celebrate the journeys, cultures and unique life experiences of people from Philadelphia’s AAPI communities.

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Featured Image Photo Credit: Holli Stephens/KYW Newsradio