PHILADELPHIA (KYW Newsradio) — “I want the food I make to taste like a James Beard Award-winning chef made it, but I don’t have the time or talent.” If you say those words to the James Beard Award-winning chef Michael Solomonov, he will tell you, “Oh, but you can. You can and you will.”
Consider it a challenge but an achievable one, and yes — in your imperfect kitchen, after a long day at work, on a school night, in between the schlep to and from practice, and while the kids are doing homework.
That’s the idea behind “Zahav Home,” the new cookbook from Solomonov and fellow Beard winner Steven Cook, co-owners of that acclaimed spot in Society Hill and the hospitality empire CookNSolo Restaurants.
KYW Newsradio’s Ian Bush spoke with them as they embarked on their book tour. Their conversation below has been lightly edited and condensed.
Interview with Solomonov and Cook
Michael Solomonov: We really love home cooking, which I know is a big surprise for most people. They sort of expect that, that all we do all day long is host dinner parties — but the reality is, we’ve got kids, we’ve got jobs, everybody’s very, very busy. And we wanted to create a cookbook that actually worked for people, whether you had 15 minutes, whether you had a little bit more time that you could put into dinner without a tremendous amount of cleanup. That was our goal.
Ian Bush: Part of what you give us in this book is a shopping list — things to have on hand in the fridge, what to keep stocked in the pantry to expand our flavor horizons. Black lime powder and za'atar, for example.
Steven Cook: These are ingredients that 16 years ago, when we started Zahav, were maybe a little bit more foreign. I think a lot more people know what tehina is now. More people know what pomegranate molasses is. But keeping that stuff on hand can really take everyday cooking and turn it into something exciting and exotic. And these are easy-to-find ingredients that add a ton of flavor. So I think that’s why we wanted to put that up front in the book. Because a little bit of grocery shopping for pantry items can completely change the way you cook at home.
IB: There are going to be some unfamiliar ingredients. One that I had to look up was hawaij [a Yemeni ground spice mixture], if I’m saying that correctly — but they’re the kind of things worth seeking out.
MS: You nailed the pronunciation, first of all. And we have recipes to make some of them — you can make them yourself quite easily. Getting good-quality spices, as spices are essentially non-perishable, can really elevate a dish. Adding said hawaij to chicken broth and simmering anything in it is fantastic and kind of magical, so definitely worth seeking out.
IB: The book has 125 recipes and includes plenty of photos that break down step by step how and why to get these flavors in everything from tossed-together-on-a-busy-weeknight dishes to the more involved plates, where the home chef will get to flex those muscles when they have the time. Highlight for me one dish that exemplifies what the book is about.
SC: We make a kafta-stuffed cabbage pie. It’s ground meat seasoned with spices that you would normally grill over charcoal at Zahav. We took that, and rice, and some tomatoes, and we stuff that inside cabbage. It creates this really impressive presentation for your guests, but it couldn’t be simpler to do. The ratio of the work that you put in, to the impression you make on your family at the table is huge for that one.
IB: You also impart wisdom from your kitchens to those of us toiling over a hot stove at home. For instance, who would have thought we would learn something new about hard-boiled eggs?
SC: We cooked all this. We cooked every recipe in this book, start to finish in Mike’s home kitchen.
MS: Yeah, which is also not an epic kitchen.
SC: It’s a normal kitchen. And I think someone asked us whether we fought in the kitchen. And I think maybe hard-boiled eggs was something that we disagreed about.
IB: What was the disagreement?
SC: It usually happens when I’m right and Mike is wrong. But I’m used to starting eggs in cold water, bringing it to a boil, turning it off, and letting it sit. But there are a million methods out there.
MS: No, wait a minute. I do that too. Cold water, boil for one minute, and then cover, non-heat, for 10 minutes.
SC: OK, so we agree.
MS: We’re in agreement that Steve is wrong.
IB: You guys disagree about agreeing.
MS: Wait, how do you make your eggs?
IB: I don’t — I love eggs and will eat them in any and every form but I don’t think I’ve ever made my own hard-boiled egg. Pathetic.
MS: Well, you know, mutually, we agree that you should — and that you should start in cold water.
IB: I have started a cooking journey of my own, so that’s one reason why I’m excited about this book. And — apologies — I have to ask you about “The Bear.” Your first cookbook, “Zahav,” was on Carmy’s shelf in an episode or two.
SC: Yeah, that was exciting to see. We didn’t know that was coming.
IB: Do you guys watch that show? Or does it hit a little too close to home?
SC: I think we have different answers. I think it hits close to home for Mike. I have watched the whole series.
MS: Yeah, I watched one episode. And even though I enjoyed it, and I think it was a very, very accurate portrayal of kitchens, I was like, this is the most unrelaxing thing in the world for me.
IB: Your empire is growing. Federal Donuts is opening soon in Radnor as part of a wider expansion. How’s Jaffa Bar [the Oyster bar Solomonov and Cook are developing at 1925 N. Howard St. in Kensington] coming along? Anything else up your sleeves?
SC: Great. I was there this morning, and we’re pushing for an October opening.
MS: You know, just making hard-boiled eggs, getting ready for Jaffa Bar, and getting ready for Aviv, which is going to be our concept at 1 Hotel in South Beach, this fall/winter.
IB: Last word about “Zahav Home.” What’s your message for people who pick it up?
MS: Use it. Get it messy. Get it dirty. Try things out. There’s something in there for everybody, including you, my friend. Cook in health and with happiness.